![]() This is my first test and can for sure be much better.Įven if it's not perfect there is a big difference compare to a single macro photo shot. It's very easy to use even if the small details can be tricky to get correct. Visit the Picolay homepage and read the tutorial to find the details how to use it. I have used the Picolay I wrote about in the beginning. How to do this merge of the focus stack depends very much of which software you use. Now I just have to set them together to a main macro photo. This was a bit time consuming and have to do it more then once until I get everything correct. I do about the same as I did here: Macro slider test I try to change the position with 0.5 mm every step and then get about 70 photos in a focus sequence. ![]() My object is a green cough drop and it have about 35 mm depth. If you get photos like this with a black border at bottom you have too short exposure time, it doesn't sync correct with your flash light source. The LED light is set to flash mode with as bright as it can be set. Full aperture and exposure time of 1/125 sec. It was recommended to use the live view, but then the camera didn't sync the flash. I have the mirror lock enabled then it takes to shots to do one exposure. Set the interval to about 2圆=12 seconds to let the camera have time to display every photo and also let me have time to change the position of the macro slider. ![]() I also have an intervalometer to fire the camera. I have the camera in manual mode, daylight white balance They can both be used as a lamp and a flash.īut the flash exposure is long and you can not freeze vibration as with a normal flash. I ordered a LED light with flexible arms and synced from the camera. If I add all three extension tubes they together have a length of 49 mm and I get 2.4:1 magnification. With a 28 mm extension tube I get 2:1 magnification, The lens is a Pentacon 50 mm f/1.8 and reverse mounted. Line up the camera focus-axis to be parallel with the axis of the macro slider. Now I have the camera mounted on the more stable holder and the object on the slider. I have changed my setup since my first test of the macro slider. I have only tested the Picolay to do focus stacking with. Visit the above pages and judge yourself what's the best software for you. Irfanview: for focus stacking but very useful to handle image files.Here is a list of free image editing tools with links: Hugin:, command line operated, see tutorial.Here is a list of the focus stacking software mention above with links: It can do everything I want to do now in the beginning. You have then to do it in two or more steps.Īfter some search on internet I found a German software, Picolay. ImageJ and Hugin are free but they can not handle a DSLR raw format. Now in the beginning I look for a free software that I can get some experience from. Helicon Focus and Zerene stacker are good what I have read, they are not free but seems to have a 30 days free trail. ImageJ which I use in astrophotography is one, Hugin is another. There are many software that can do this more or less automatic. With focus stacking you normally have 20 photos or more and then the above method is unpractical. You set a layer for every photo and with mask get the areas with sharpness and then blend them together. If there are only a few photos you can do it with Photoshop or Gimp or other image editing tool. Wikipedia: wiki/ Focus stackingWikipedia, information about focus stackingīut how to get all these separate photos to one alone photo with focus all over the object?.Wikipedia has more information about focus stacking: Together these photos will cover the whole object in focus. One technique to overcome this is to take a lot of photos at different focus points. When taking macro photos you get a very narrow focus depth.Įven with a very small aperture the focus depth is narrow.
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